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Greige goods

Summary

Greige goods (Gray goods, Grey goods, Corah[1][2] or korā)[3] are loom state woven fabrics, or unprocessed knitted fabrics. Greige goods undergo many subsequent processes, for instance, dyeing, printing, bleaching, and finishing,[4][5][6] prior to further converting to finished goods such as clothing, or other textile products.[7] "Grey fabrics" is another term to refer to unfinished woven or knitted fabrics.[8][9]

Robert Dennis Collection of Stereoscopic Views. Series numbered 1-25; negatives numbered 20300-20301, 20303, 20304, 20306, 20308-20313, 20315, 20318-20320, 20323, 20325-20332. Views of the silk industry at South Manchester, Connecticut: shows the production of textiles from the opening of bales of raw silk through sorting, washing, combing, spinning, warping, weaving, designing cloth, bleaching, dyeing and printing silk textiles. Neg. 20313
Silk rolls

"Corah silk" was a type of light silk from India in the 19th century. It was a pale straw-colored material made from unbleached (raw) silk.[10][11][12]

Characteristics edit

Greige goods do not mean their color but their unprocessed form; they are sometimes called grey.[13] Greige goods are unfinished fabrics that come out directly from a loom or a knitting machine.[4] Woven materials are also called ''loom state fabrics''.[14] Greige materials are scoured (to clean) and sometimes bleached (to remove natural color) before dyeing and printing.[15]

Greige goods contain many types of impurities.

Impurities edit

Foreign matter in addition to the actual fiber is known as impurities. Textile fibers contain the following types of impurities.

  • Natural impurities: Impurities gathered from the natural environment by the fibres. Natural impurities also include non-fibrous parts that are incorporated into the fiber during its growth. Notably, these are not present in synthetic fibres, which are manufactured artificially.
  • Added: Oils and waxes during spinning or knitting or weaving.
  • Accidental: dirt or mishandling, foreign contaminants.[16][17][18]
The impurities in different natural fibers
Fiber type Impurities in %age Source
Cotton 10 [19]
Wool 40-50 [20]: 78 
Silk 22-30 [21]

Impurities in cotton edit

Cotton pectins, waxes, proteins, mineral compounds, and ash, etc.

The major impurities in cotton[22]
Type of impurity %age
Pectins 0.4-1.2
Wax 0.4-1.2
Others 1.7

Impurities in wool edit

The impurities in wool[23]
Type of impurity In Merino, %age In Crossbreed, in %age
Dirt or soil 19 8
Grease 16 11
Suint 6 8

Impurities in silk edit

Silk is an animal fiber. It consists of 70–80% fibroin and 20–30% sericin (the gum coating the fibres). It carries impurities like dirt, oils, fats and sericin. [24][21]

Natural color edit

Most natural fibers have natural color, the natural color of the cotton cloth is off-white or beige when it is undyed or not processed.[25] Because of the presence of natural pigment, wool has a slight yellow tint,[26] though the color is undesirable and is removed during the pre-treatment processes of scouring and bleaching.

Fugitive tint edit

The tint is an application of very light dyes, or colorants, the fugitive (temporary) tint is used to identify and distinguish different batches. The fugitive tint is readily removable during subsequent wet processing treatments.[27] The practice is common with synthetic textile materials.[28][29]

Parameters edit

Textile manufacturing is a complicated and lengthy procedure. The material passes through various stages. It is necessary to decide the yarn count, stitch length, thread count, and g.s.m. at the beginning, i.e., the greige stage, to achieve a desired finished product.[30][31] Since the textile industry still works in a fragmented way, the greige goods are also sold for further processing at different units.[32] They are then stitched together for subsequent operations.[14]

RFD fabrics edit

The semifinished state of fabrics that have been scoured or bleached in preparation for subsequent processes such as dyeing and printing is referred to as RFD (ready for dyeing).[33][34][35] PFD stands for "prepared for dyeing," while PFP stands for "prepared for printing.".[36] RFD multifiber that is composed of various fibers is used in testing of washing fastness for cross staining. It's known as "adjacent fabric."[37]

See also edit

References edit

  1. ^ d. 1917, Whitworth, George Clifford (1885). An Anglo-Indian Dictionary: A Glossary of Indian Terms Used in English, and of Such English Or Other Non-Indian Terms as Have Obtained Special Meanings in India. Kegan Paul, Trench. p. 73.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
  2. ^ Burnell, A. C.; Yule, Henry (2018-10-24). Hobson-Jobson: Glossary of Colloquial Anglo-Indian Words And Phrases. Routledge. p. 706. ISBN 978-1-136-60331-0.
  3. ^ A Dictionary of Urdū, Classical Hindī, and English. H. Milford. 1884. p. 861.
  4. ^ a b MATHEWS, KOLANJIKOMBIL (2017). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 690. ISBN 978-93-85059-66-7.
  5. ^ Dictionary of Occupational Titles. U.S. Government Printing Office. 1949. p. 468.
  6. ^ "Textile - Textile finishing processes". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 2021-03-03.
  7. ^ Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. p. 4. ISBN 978-0-13-494592-7.
  8. ^ Trade, United States Court of International (1987). United States Court of International Trade Reports: Cases Adjudged in the United States Court of International Trade. The Court. p. 35.
  9. ^ Elmogahzy, Yehia E. (2019-08-15). Engineering Textiles: Integrating the Design and Manufacture of Textile Products. Elsevier. p. 275. ISBN 978-0-08-102488-1.
  10. ^ Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (2010-11-15). The Dictionary of Fashion History. Berg. p. 240. ISBN 978-1-84788-533-3.
  11. ^ Wardle, Sir Thomas (1886). Royal Commission and Government of India Silk Culture Court: Descriptive Catalogue. W. Clowes. pp. 27, 29.
  12. ^ Mansfield, Charles Blachford (1877). Aerial Navigation. Macmillan and Company. p. 501.
  13. ^ Andrews, Mildred Gwin (1987). The men and the mills : a history of the Southern textile industry. Internet Archive. Macon, GA : Mercer. p. 300. ISBN 978-0-86554-289-1.
  14. ^ a b Hargrave, Harriet (1997-01-01). From Fiber to Fabric: The Essential Guide to Quiltmaking Textiles. C&T Publishing Inc. pp. 28, 29, 57, 137. ISBN 978-1-57120-524-7.
  15. ^ Conference, South India Textile Research Association Joint Technological (2003). Resume of Papers, 44th Joint Technological Conference, March 8 and 9, 2003, Held at SITRA, Coimbatore. South India Textile Research Association. p. 88.
  16. ^ Clark, M. (2011-10-25). Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing: Principles, Processes and Types of Dyes. Elsevier. pp. 65, 66. ISBN 978-0-85709-397-4.
  17. ^ The Cotton Year Book and Diary. Marsden and Company, Limited. 1919. p. 470.
  18. ^ "Impurity - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-07-31.
  19. ^ "Scouring of Cotton with Cellulases, Pectinases and Proteases" (PDF).
  20. ^ Trotman, E. R. (Edward Russell) (1968). Textile scouring and bleaching. Internet Archive. London, Griffin. ISBN 978-0-85264-067-8.
  21. ^ a b Montazer, Majid; Harifi, Tina (2018-06-20). Nanofinishing of Textile Materials. Woodhead Publishing. p. 41. ISBN 978-0-08-101250-5.
  22. ^ Clark, M. (2011-10-25). Handbook of Textile and Industrial Dyeing: Principles, Processes and Types of Dyes. Elsevier. pp. 65, 66. ISBN 978-0-85709-397-4.
  23. ^ Trotman, E. R. (Edward Russell) (1968). Textile scouring and bleaching. Internet Archive. London, Griffin. p. 6. ISBN 978-0-85264-067-8.
  24. ^ Hummel, John James (1885). The dyeing of textile fabrics. p. 115.
  25. ^ Curtis, Homer S. ] comp [from old catalog (1916). Dressmakers dictionary . The Library of Congress. [Brooklyn, N.Y., The Guide printing company]. p. 5.
  26. ^ Matthews, J. Merritt (1921). Bleaching And Related Processes. The Chemical Catalog Co., New York. p. 2.
  27. ^ Anstey, H. (Helen) (1997). The Anstey Weston guide to textile terms. Internet Archive. [Great Britain] : Weston. p. 105. ISBN 978-0-9530130-0-5.
  28. ^ Mauersberger, Herbert Richard (1952). American Handbook of Synthetic Textiles: American Synthetics Handbook, a Practical Text and Reference Book for the Entire Textile and Related Industries. Textile Book Publishers. p. 381.
  29. ^ Ash, Michael; Ash, Irene (1997-12-22). Chemical Tradename Dictionary. John Wiley & Sons. p. 144. ISBN 978-0-471-18857-5.
  30. ^ Career Guide to Industries. The Bureau. 2006.
  31. ^ Ray, Sadhan C. (2012-03-14). Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. CRC Press. ISBN 978-93-80308-65-4.
  32. ^ Current Industrial Reports: Consumer, scientific, technical, and industrial glassware. M32E. U.S. Department of Commerce, Bureau of the Census. 1968. p. 5.
  33. ^ Sarkar, Prasanta. Garment Manufacturing: Processes,Practices and Technology. Online Clothing Study. p. 154. ISBN 978-93-83701-75-9.
  34. ^ Kolanjikombil, Mathews (2019). Pretreatment of Textile Substrates. Woodhead Publishing India. p. 155. ISBN 978-93-85059-99-5.
  35. ^ Kumar, Bipin; Somkuwar, Viraj (2021-12-22). Textiles for Functional Applications. BoD – Books on Demand. p. 224. ISBN 978-1-83968-629-0.
  36. ^ Kight, Kimberly (2011-11-16). A Field Guide to Fabric Design: Design, Print & Sell Your Own Fabric; Traditional & Digital Techniques. C&T Publishing Inc. p. 103. ISBN 978-1-60705-618-8.
  37. ^ MATHEWS, KOLANJIKOMBIL (2017). Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Textile Terms: Four Volume Set. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 24. ISBN 978-93-85059-66-7.
 
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