Ngadi Chuli

Summary

Ngadi Chuli (also known as Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, or Dunapurna) is a mountain in the Mansiri Himal (or Manaslu Himal), also known as the Gurkha Massif, in Nepal. With an elevation of 7,871 metres (25,823 ft) above sea level, it is the 20th-highest mountain on Earth.

Ngadi Chuli
Left to right: Manaslu, Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli
Highest point
Elevation7,871 m (25,823 ft)
Ranked 20th
Prominence1,020 m (3,350 ft)
Coordinates28°30′12″N 84°34′03″E / 28.50333°N 84.56750°E / 28.50333; 84.56750
Geography
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
60km
37miles
Bhutan
Nepal
Pakistan
India
China
Ngadi Chuli South
45
Ngadi Chuli South
Ngadi Chuli South
Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri)
Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri)
Liankang Kangri (Gangkhar Puensum North, Liangkang Kangri)
Kula Kangri
Kula Kangri
Kula Kangri
Annapurna IV
Annapurna IV
Annapurna IV
Himalchuli West
Himalchuli West
Himalchuli West
Annapurna III
Annapurna III
Annapurna III
Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum)
Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum)
Gangkhar Puensum (Gangkar Punsum)
Kangbachen Southwest
Kangbachen Southwest
Kangbachen Southwest
Silver Crag
Silver Crag
Silver Crag
Annapurna Fang
Annapurna Fang
Annapurna Fang
Dhaulagiri IV
Dhaulagiri IV
Dhaulagiri IV
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Molamenqing (Phola Gangchen)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Hillary Peak (Ngojumba Kang III)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona'nyi, Namu Nan)
Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)
Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)
Kumbhakarna Mountain (Mount Kumbhakarna, Jannu)
Dhaulagiri III
Dhaulagiri III
Dhaulagiri III
Ngojumba Kang II
Ngojumba Kang II
Ngojumba Kang II
Dhaulagiri II
Dhaulagiri II
Dhaulagiri II
Kamet
Kamet
Kamet
Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)
Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)
Zemu Kang (Zemu Gap Peak)
Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa)
Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa)
Namcha Barwa (Namchabarwa)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Chomo Lonzo (Chomolonzo, Chomolönzo, Chomo Lönzo, Jomolönzo, Lhamalangcho)
Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi
Nanda Devi
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Nuptse (Nubtse)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, Dunapurna)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Himalchuli (Himal Chuli)
Kangbachen
Kangbachen
Kangbachen
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Tenzing Peak (Ngojumba Kang, Ngozumpa Kang, Ngojumba Ri)
Annapurna II
Annapurna II
Annapurna II
Gyachung Kang
Gyachung Kang
Gyachung Kang
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Annapurna I East (Annapurna East Peak)
Manaslu East
Manaslu East
Manaslu East
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Shishapangma (Shishasbangma, Xixiabangma)
Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Nanga Parbat (Diamer)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Manaslu (Kutang)
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Kangchenjunga Central
Kangchenjunga Central
Kangchenjunga Central
Kangchenjunga South
Kangchenjunga South
Kangchenjunga South
Makalu
Makalu
Makalu
Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West)
Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West)
Yalung Kang (Kanchenjunga West)
Lhotse
Lhotse
Lhotse
Kangchenjunga (Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā, Khangchendzonga)
Kangchenjunga (Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā, Khangchendzonga)
Kangchenjunga (Kanchenjunga, Kanchanjanghā, Khangchendzonga)
Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest
   
The major peaks (not mountains) above 7,500 m (24,600 ft) height in Himalayas, rank identified in Himalayas alone (not the world).[1]
LocationNepal
Parent rangeHimalayas
Climbing
First ascent19 October 1970 by Hiroshi Watanabe and Lhakpa Tsering
or
8 May 1979 by Ryszard Gajewski and Maciej Pawlikowski
Easiest routeSnow/ice climb

Features

edit

Flanked by Manaslu to the north and Himalchuli to the southeast, Ngadi Chuli is the middlemost and third-highest mountain of the massif. Though shorter and somewhat rounder than its immediate neighbors when viewed from the more common eastern approaches, it is difficult to access due to snow danger and being flanked by active glaciers in all directions. The steep western side, recessed behind outlying peaks and glacial valleys, rises over 3,200 metres (10,500 ft) above the Thulagi glacier. It is crowned by a steep, technical rock headwall with five summits across its length; only the highest of these is named.

Climbing history

edit

Despite its top 20 height, Ngadi Chuli has only been climbed once or twice. The probable first ascent occurred in 1970, when Hiroshi Watanabe and Sherpa Lhakpa Tsering, members of a Japanese expedition, climbed the east ridge and face. They left their camp V, at about 7,500 metres, for a summit attempt. About 70 m below the summit they disappeared out of sight for nearly two hours at 1:15 PM. On their return, after descending a difficult snow ridge, they suffered a fatal fall down an ice wall, from c. 7,600 m nearly down to camp 4 at 6,900 m, where their climbing partners observed their fall. Neither their camera nor Watanabe's ice-ax, to which pennants would have been attached had they reached the summit, survived the fall, so that no conclusive evidence that they reached the summit has ever been found.[2] In order to achieve a confirmed ascent of the mountain, the Japanese organized three more expeditions, in 1974, 1975 and 1978, but these all failed, with the last of these incurring the avalanche deaths of three climbers on the southwestern side of the mountain.[2]

The first confirmed ascent was in 1979 by the Polish climbers Ryszard Gajewski and Maciej Pawlikowski via the West buttress, involving some class V rock climbing at great height.[2]

A British Army Mountaineering Association expedition attempted Peak 29 in the post-monsoon 1982 season. Adverse weather and logistical problems caused by the Falklands War, however, prevented the expedition from climbing above 20,000 feet (6,100 m).[3]

As of 2014, no further attempts have been made on the mountain since the British expedition in 1982.[2]

Timeline

edit
  • 1961 First reconnaissance by Japanese climbers.
  • 1969 Third Japanese attempt reached 7350 m.
  • 1970 Probable first ascent, via the east ridge and face.
  • 1978 Three climbers die in an avalanche during the seventh Japanese attempt.
  • 1979 First confirmed ascent, by a Polish expedition.

References

edit
  1. ^ "Peak Bagger:Himalaya, Central Nepal Himalaya, Khumbu, Ghurka Himal, Annapurna Himal, Xishapangma Area, Sikkim-Eastern Nepal Himalaya, Western Nepal Himalaya, Assam Himalaya, Punjab Himalaya, Bhutan Himalaya, Garwhal Himalaya, Ganesh Himal". Retrieved 22 October 2024.
  2. ^ a b c d Günter Seyfferth (2014) Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29), 7871 m at himalaya-info.org
  3. ^ Lane, Bronco (2000). Military Mountaineering, page 171. hayloft. ISBN 0-9523282-1-6.