Bula Bula Bula,
Think back, (at this age I can do a lot of thinking), is there any defining moment or event that changes your life, your direction so profoundly. I can think of a dozen moments. But one that stands out that shaped other moments, Tavarua, Fiji. A one week trip with two friends, turned into a 14 year story book journey. I remember sitting the first day, first visit as a guest and say to my two buds, this is the coolest place on the planet. A year goes by, the phone rings, the offer of a life time. My dream of living on Gilligan’s Island, and being Robinson Crusoe just happened.
In the surfing world, the most dream job you can aspire to, besides being a pro on the tour, is a boatman on Tavarua Island. It is such a small group of, be in the right place and time, damn lucky kind of person to get signed on. You pay to get there; you work everyday all day long for no pay, just food, bed, and the most perfect waves in the world on a small South Pacific island, with the friendliest Fijians that take you in as family. So I sit back now and remember a younger time, more than 50 plane trips across the Pacific. Vinaka vaka levu Tavarua, Vinaka Fiji.
Moce
More Fiji stories to come.